Namibia –25th  June 2015 onwards

We were caught in a squall on the road between Clanwilliam and Springbok which soaked and chilled us through. A warm room was needed and the Springbok Information Centre gave us a list of possible accommodation. We ended up in the unlikely sounding Masonic lodge Hotel. It was managed by a lovely lady called Rebecca who got the room heating switched on and laundered our sodden clothes, demonstrating the friendliness which is so refreshing for us “Brits”.
The next morning we piled on several layers to stay warm in the cold temperatures and headed North for the final 100km to the border with Namibia.
Arrow straight roads cut through barren countryside which gradually turned more desert like nearer to the border. James was leading again. He showed great discipline in sticking at a steady 110Kph, just under the speed limit. The 3 of us fizzed along quite easily enjoying the calm conditions and bright sunshine albeit it was still a bit chilly. Inside the hour we arrived at Voolsdrift for our first African border crossing. We weren’t anticipating any problems as there are close relations between Namibia and SA and despite my best attempt to accidentally buck the system by riding straight through the Namibian side without stopping, caused by lack of signage in the building reconstruction, we were soon through with all paperwork officially stamped and our 154 N$ (£8) vehicle usage fee paid up.
So far so good and even better there was a marked increase in temperature. Roger (who we met in Clanwilliam) had said that the weather was much better North of the Orange River and he was absolutely right. We stopped for fuel a couple of miles past the border post and took the opportunity to remove some layers. A quick conference and the GPS was programmed to take us to Ai-Ais although as usual both the Garmin units (Zumo and Monterra) disagreed over route and distance. We decided to go with the Monterra as it seemed more consistent with what we thought the basic maps were showing. This meant I was leading and such is my lack of trust in the thing I decided to ignore it when we came to the first sign to Ai-Ais, 90Km before Monterra said to expect it.
We always knew that most of Namibia has to be navigated on dirt roads so it was no surprise that 80Km of it lay between us and our destination. However it was our very first Namibian dirt road so we treated it with respect gradually building speed from 50kph to 80kph. James and me were absolutely comfortable on the CCM’s, while Andrew was making it known that all was not well onboard the BMW.
We stopped after about 40km to take a photo of the bikes and us in the middle of all the “nothingness”. Seriously, until you are actually in the middle of it, having got there under your own steam, you really can’t imagine what it is like.
I swapped bikes with Andrew and was treated to the sight of him confidently riding off into the distance while I was reminded by the squirming Beemer that at heart it is a tarmac bike.  Gradually I got used to its behaviour but over dinner that night we christened it the “Red Peril”.
The final few KM before Ai-Ais Lodge and Hot Springs resort, were over “washboard”. These are sandy roads with sharp ridges running across them. I had read about this and the recommended approach of speeding up until the suspension harmonises with the vibration. This can mean getting up to over 80Kph, something that we were not willing to do at the end of a long day on unfamiliar roads. So we chattered up to the security gate, minus most of our teeth fillings and the odd eyeball shaken out of its socket…
The security guy (young lad in a uniform) did his best to be nonplussed by the UK format number plates by asking us to write them in his log before waving us through. Enticed by the sight of nice looking lodges, a tennis court, outdoor swimming pool and signs to the “Hot Spring” we all pressed the starter buttons to go and find out more. The Red Peril and James’s CCM started but my bike with Andrew still aboard didn’t want to know about going any further.
James and Andrew went on ahead while I fiddled with things. They returned to inform me that we were camping as all “proper” accommodation was fully booked. We later learned that the South African school holidays had just started so many families were already heading North for some Namibian sunshine. Just like when everybody in the North West heads up the M6 to the Lake District but without the sunshine…. or the space….. or the friendly helpful attitude of all other travellers. In fact it’s really nothing like when we head up the M6 to the Lake District….
We spent the next day swapping bits and bobs back and forth between the bikes to identify the problem. Starter motor seems to be the culprit but the good guys at CCM have organised an “aid pack” to be sent to their African missionaries. So we will be heading to Keetmanshoek in the next day or so to collect and hopefully resolve the problem. In the meantime we will have to bump start the bike.
A final note for this entry. We have been totally impressed by the generosity of the South Africans on the site. Advice, tools and offers of wine have not stopped for the 3 days we have been here. It also has to be said that being on motor bikes has made a big difference. People in this part of the world like motor bikes. One family in particular who make wine not far from Capetown spent a long time sharing tales of their own motorcycling tours with the lady (Mum of 2 daughters) riding a GS1200 when they toured on bikes. They have even invited us to stay with them when we are back in Capetown area….I might have to indulge in a wee glass of their red if we do…would be bad manners not to ;-)