Malawi

Not since Namibia have we been so pleased to be travelling by motorcycle. Malawi rewarded our choice with great roads which routed through uplifting scenery. The locals, kids and many of the adults, were pleased to see us waving, giving thumbs up and the infrequent exhortation to pull a wheely.

The border crossing was very straightforward. Malawi are glad to have you visit so don’t charge for a tourist visa (this is due to change in October for UK citizens in retaliation for the UK government charging Malawi citizens) and make the whole process simple and easy.

Before leaving Chipata (Zambia) we had found a reputable money changer in the local Spar. Granted this is not an obvious location but we had been introduced by Marianne our host at Mama Rulas B&B. Waiting in the Spar car park I bought 10 bananas with our last 20 Kwatcha from one of the many ladies who wander around with great bunches on their heads and gave 2 each to a crowd of very dirty barefoot kids who had gathered, begging, around the bikes. They snatched them off me and immediately began stuffing them into their mouths. This made me quite sad and, in point of fact, glad to be leaving Zambia.

The road from the border to Lilongwe (capital of Malawi) was a relaxing change from our previous 2 weeks experience. Traffic was mostly well behaved and the speed limit at 80Kmph was mostly obeyed. Most noticeable was the contrast in roadside dwellings. Brick instead of mud for walls and tin instead of straw for roofs was more common though not universal. In general there was a greater impression of useful and directed effort.

We headed straight for Lilongwe and booked into the Cross Roads Hotel which in contrast to its 60’s British TV namesake was a nice business type of hotel. It set the standard in terms of pricing that we maintained for our short stay in Malawi. Accommodation was either quite basic or very nice but at Western European pricing levels. 

We decided on the latter approach, the highest price at $120 each being the wonderful Norman Carr Cottage in Monkey Bay which we reached the next day after a fantastic ride through the mountains. Switchback roads spiralling down to the lake particularly designed for motorcycles. Our host was Taffy. He developed the complex, running it to exceptional service standards and taking a very personal level of interest in his guests. We had a very entertaining time there and while I can’t repeat many of Taffy’s stories or opinions without causing some offence (politically incorrect is a mild but accurate description)  I can say that we hadn’t laughed so much in the whole journey.

Hard work this motorcycling across Africa - scene at Norman Carr's

Probably the nicest bed in Africa!

View from my front door at Norman Carr Cottage

The next day we made good time heading North up the M5 which runs along the lake eventually stopping at Ngala Lodge for a comfortable one night stay ($80 each) with a really nice fish dish for dinner. Our bikes had been washed when we came to them in the morning and the barman even found a black market source of petrol for us, the fuel stations we had planned on using being empty.

Taffy had recommended that we stay at Sangilo Sanctuary before leaving Malawi so, for once, I had booked ahead with Sam the manager. On reaching Mfuzu, approx. 100km south of Sangilo, I checked my phone to see a text request from Sam asking me to bring some supplies from the Shoprite supermarket. A bit unconventional I thought but I obliged squeezing what I could into the limited space in our luggage.

The Sanctuary is aptly named. It sits on the Northern shore of Lake Malawi and benefits from the constant relaxing sound of waves lapping the shore. It is miles from anywhere, hence the request to pick up supplies. The accommodation are small lodges built from local materials situated on the cliff side, electricity and hot water being supplied by solar power. In truth the facilities are actually quite basic but the overall atmosphere is just amazing. We quickly decided to stay a second night, partly to use the data access for some proper planning for the long drag up to Dar Es Salaam but mostly because we wanted to.

While there we met with Cushla and Lawrie from New Zealand. They travel 4 months every year and were making their way around Malawi and Zimbabwe using local buses and motorcycle taxis. They have my absolute and total respect for their choice of transport. In previous years they had been to South America, the Middle East and throughout Europe. Lawrie is 71 years old – I won’t be so impolite as to speculate on Cushla’s age. I think they are living proof that travel broadens the mind and keeps you young!

A final note on the Sanctuary – Charlie and Euan stayed there on their “Long Way Down”. We didn’t know this before going. Sam says to check out episode 10 – the one where his wife falls off in a patch of sand – to see Euan shaving in a mirror outside. I used the same mirror and slept in the same bed…..mmm….maybe that’s not such a good thing!

This was our last night in Malawi. Both Andrew and I can recommend the country. It caters well to European tourists but still has enough of “Africa” in it to give a genuine experience. The only slight irritation is the currency which is just bonkers at 1,000 MKw for 2 US$, not such an issue until you consider the largest denomination note is 1,000 and most places don’t take credit card. It means you end up carrying massive wodges of cash. Also the chip and pin cards don’t work in the ATM’s.

Oh, and I got done for speeding again but the cop was super polite and professional. The fine was $10. I didn’t bother arguing as it came with an official govt. receipt.

The final drive to the border with Tanzania was through some beautiful scenery with a relaxing following wind. The machines were lightly stressed. We were relaxed. Everything was right with the world and we were glad we were on motorcycles.

Then we got to the border post with Tanzania……..